Branching Out
In an ever-growing wine drinking community, I find that many people aren’t willing to try new things. Wine, like anything else requires a bit of devotion to fully understand and even then it seems like an endless journey. Many folks either get stuck on white wines or if they have made it to the reds “only drink cabernet or merlot” or even worse “don’t drink merlot”. Considering the fact that wine has been around longer than any living person you would think more people would want to explore its depths and truly take it all in. Perhaps to some it is just another alcoholic beverage and that’s fine. I don’t think it should be placed on any sort of pedestal but I do believe that people should spread their wings a little more and try new things. There are literally thousands of different grape varieties. Italy alone is home to over three thousand varieties of grapes. You could spend your entire life there tasting wine and probably not taste every wine made. To some folks, that may sound like an intimidating challenge. To me, it sounds like a great way to spend free time.
In the past few years Washington’s wine industry has blown up and become a major player in the wine world. Yes people have been making wine here for quite some time but it’s been the last 5-10 years that have seen the greatest spike in growth and popularity with an emphasis on the last 5 years. With this growth come the pioneer spirit and lots of experimentation. Many wineries and vineyards have planted new varieties of grapes in an attempt to see what will work and what won’t. Some with success and others with endless frustration. Washington is home to a vast array of growing conditions that could be suitable for growing just about anything. With all of this happening there are lots of open doors for those brave enough to dig in and taste new things.
Here is a quick (or not so quick) run down on some different varieties being grown in Washington, that are very popular elsewhere:
Petit Verdot: This tough little guy is native to the wines of Bordeaux, France. Generally used as a blending grape to add color tannin and flavor. A little bit goes a long way when blending. This grape can easily over power the likes of Cabernet Sauvignon or merlot. Its small but it packs a serious punch. While it is not uncommon to see wines containing only 1% Petit verdot there are a few producers using it as a stand-alone variety. The grape has found a home in several Washington vineyards and some of the state’s finest wineries are using it. It lends itself to making very inky, well-perfumed, dense wines with lots of blueberry and dark fruit like flavors. If done right it can be a great treat.
Cab Franc: I know, I know its been here for a very long time. What most people don’t realize is that this wine is not just a blender. Most commonly known for being used in Bordeaux styled blends Cab Franc is a major variety in France’s Loire Valley. It tends to make very earthy, esoteric and sometimes vegetal tasting wines. If done right the vegetal characteristic can be minimized creating well perfumed earthy wines with some good red fruit flavors. This variety by itself is capable of aging anywhere from 10 to 20 to 30 years and in some cases even further than that. The wines of Rafault in Chinon (a Loire valley region) are renowned for living well past 30 years often resulting in a religious experience of sorts upon tasting. The grape has amazing potential in Washington and quite a following. Cab Franc lovers are die-hard and loyal. There are quite a few people in Washington doing wonderful things with this grape.
Malbec: Yet another Bordeaux blending variety. Malbec, when grown alone under the right conditions, can be crafted into highly aromatic fruit forward full-bodied wines that taste like nothing else. Known for its hulking structure and deep purple color, Malbec is a major variety in the black wines of Cahors, France. Perhaps its most prolific following has been in Argentina. The Argentines are known for crafting their best wines from Malbec. They have a great set of unique growing conditions ideal for coaxing this grape into some of its most beautiful examples. As of late there has been a wave of Washington producers crafting malbecs that represent the grape fairly well. It is gaining popularity at a rapid pace.
Carmeñere: At one time, this peppery robust variety was once as widely planted as Cabernet sauvignon in Bordeaux, France. Post Phylloxera the grape had practically been pushed to extinction. Re-appearing in the early 90s in Chile via a Spanish traveler. Today the grape is Chile’s claim to fame, as they are the world’s number one producer of this spicy beast. While quality levels vary quite a bit There are some great examples that can be found at many price points. A Small amount of this grape exists in Washington. Seven Hills vineyard is home to some acreage. The grape seams to be fairing well. When it is available it sells out pretty fast. There are some Walla Walla producers that are blending the grape and others crafting it into a stand-alone variety.
Tempranillo: Considered to be the King of Spanish wines to some. Tempranillo produces some incredible, long lived, reds that are like nothing else. Tempranillo is the Major Grape in two of Spain’s most famous wine regions. Rioja and Ribera del Duero have long dominated as Spain’s most popular red wines. The grape tends to create sexy, full-bodied reds that can be packed with enough stuffing to live well over 20 years in age. While this grape calls Spain home other states and countries have been experimenting with the grape. There is some planted in Argentina in south America. Washington, Oregon and yes…California are all home to tempranillo plantings. It is one of my favorite red varieties and makes some truly amazing wines. In Walla Walla, wineries such as Seven Hills, Cayuse and K Vintners have all worked with the grape and have been successful. I think it shows some pretty good potential in Washington.
Sangiovese: 1 in 5 vines in Italy are planted to some sort of the Sangiovese grape. As the major component of what everyone knows as Chianti, Sangiovese’s roots stem from the Tuscany region of Northern/central Italy. The wines can range from light and delicate like some of those from Chianti to bold and full-bodied like the great Brunello’s of Montalcino. Sangiovese can be very long lived and makes for a wonderful food wine on all levels. There are Plantings in many places Especially In Washington and California. A good number of the American examples tend to lack some the depth and flavors of their Italian counterparts but progress is being made. Sangiovese seems to have found a good home in Washington and should continue to improve.
Grenache: A major variety in Southeastern France in regions such as the Rhône and the Languedoc/ Rousillon Grenache is also very prominent in Spain (where it is known as Garnaxta/ garnacha) and also in Australia. In the US there are plantings in California and Washington and Oregon. Wines made with Grenache can range from medium bodied and fruity to big, tannic and austere. Although it is often a used as a blending grape, it works great on its own. It is most common blended with varieties such as mourvedre, cinsault, counnoise, syrah and many other minor Rhône varieties. Perhaps the most widely recognized style is the “GSM”(grenache, syrah, mourvedre). While they have been making blends like this for years in France, the past five or so years there has been an upswing in popularity and production of these wines globally. I find them to be some of my favorite style of blends. They produce unique flavor profiles and textures not often associated with the major varieties. While grenache is very young to Washington there are some producers making some great wines with it. In time I look forward to it having a significant impact on Washington’s wine industry. Many believe the state is well suited to grow the Rhône varieties, I hope we are right.
Although this was a bit brief and not too deep I’m hopeful it has been somewhat informative. This is just the tip of the iceberg. In time will be going a bit further in depth with each of the varieties. I would like to be more specific on the origins and the wines made from these varieties. We will focus on more wine regions and sub-regions in due time. Stay tuned.
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